Interactive matrix may take a few seconds to load… CLICK matrices for latest prices. *DRONE RACING INTERNATIONAL FPV group was asked to vote for their ‘Favourite flight controller for 5″ quads‘. Weight data sourced from product descriptions. The majority of links on this table are affiliate links. I receive a commission (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase after clicking one of the affiliate links. Support FPVcompare directly by becoming a Patreon supporter.
Are you searching for a flight controller for your 5″ racing or freestyle FPV drone, with the greatest popularity, lowest weight or best value? Our comparison matrix is designed to point you towards the flight controller most suitable for you. If you want to know which flight controller is used by championship-winning FPV racers, check out part lists from ‘Racer X‘ and other top-flight FPV racers. Next, discover other community favourites and or use the decision flowchart below to navigate current FPV racing drone technology.
Interactive CLICK flowchart for product or comparison matrix links. For links to the illustrated RACER PARTS and FREESTYLE PARTS visit the FPV Community Picks page. FPV = First person view, PNP = plug and play, which requires you purchase a seperate controller and receiver to plug into the multirotor flight controller then bind, bind & fly quads require you purchase and bind a seperate controller, LiPo = Lithium-polymer, Whoop = 55-75mm size multirotor with a 1S LiPo, Powerwhoop = 75mm whoop with a more powerful 2S LiPo. Cinewhoop = 75mm or above Powerwhoop with HD recording function. Flowcart inspired by Gulzar’s ‘Want to fly quadcopters’ flowchart at FPVfrenzy.
Hello, I am building my first quad (5″ freestyle) and will go digital with DJI system, but you made the build with all 6s stuff and 6s batteries, but DJI stated that it should be 4s quads. I saw that you also put a voltage regulator (probably because of that), so I wanted to ask if that’s better than building a 4s right away with no regulator.
Thanks,
Stefan.
Hi Stefan, you’re correct that I include the voltage regulator so that you can run the DJI system on 6S. FPV builder Jason Langhoff recommended the Holybro Kakute F7 HDV flight controller (http://bit.ly/2HwIC2m) to me because this has the voltage regulator built in the board, which simplifies your build. I would recommend a 6S setup (with voltage regulator or Holybro Kakute F7 HDV flight controller) over a 4S setup reason for two reasons (1) a 6S setup is compatible with 4S batteries, so you can start off slow with 4S and progress to 6S as your confidence levels rise (2) the extra power from 6S helps offset the extra weight from the DJI ‘air-unit’. I hope that helps!
Hi Goose
Yes, that helped a lot!
Just one more thing, is there any special way of wiring or something I should do to tell the voltage regulator (or the FC you mentioned) to regulate power for the DJI Air unit and not for motors and everything else? Or it just does that by itself?
Because using 6s batteries means I will need lower KV motors and if the motors also use 4s-like power, they would be really underpowered, so that confuses me.
Thanks again for the time!
Hi Stefan, the FC I mentioned doesn’t require any special wiring and uses the inbuilt voltage regulators to output 8V to the DJI system and 5V to any other parts like LED strips (the battery connects directly to the ESCs and through to the motors, so you don’t need to worry there). I don’t have any direct experience with low KV motors on 4S power, but UAVfutures found that the Diatone GT M540 with 1950KV motors on 4S was a great starting power for beginners, whilst 5S and 6S capability allowed progression to greater speeds (relevant commentary http://bit.ly/2ZwhaYV). Basically, I think the extra fun from 6s is worth the effort!